Sunday, November 20, 2005

Riva Fish House

Riva Fish House
500 Municipal Wharf
831-429-1223

It was a late summer afternoon and the fog was creeping ever closer to the Santa Cruz Wharf. Sea lions barked as tourists dropped baitfish onto the wood planks below, and the air permeated with the blend of calamari, French fries, and a dash of salt air. I know it was a Wednesday because sailboats began pouring from the harbor. Their sails filled, and as they did a gust wisped over me, sending a cold shiver down my spine.

My eyes darted as they searched furiously for a break, a wall, anything to shield me from the wind. And that’s when I discovered Riva Fish House. I can’t remember how many years ago that was, but one thing that can be said is that in all of those years Riva hasn’t changed: No, not even a little. Riva has always been a favorite amongst locals for its casual dining, ample portions, and modest prices. All of it overlooking lighthouse point, West Cliff Drive, and the famous Steamers Lane.

The menu, which features mostly seafood, is the same as it was those many years ago. My favorite, Shark Vera Cruz, features thresher shark with vegetables and black beans accented with a squeeze of lime over the top. You have your choice of rice pilaf, but I always opt for the French fries, which may in fact be the best fries on the West Coast. In fact I don’t normally eat fried foods, but the deep fried calamari and the French fried zucchini sticks are just too sumptuous to resist.

Don’t like shark? Try the Prawns and Scallops Monterey instead. Not looking for seafood? Riva also offers most of their dishes using skinless, boneless chicken breast instead. Even the burgers seem to taste better when you’re perched over the Pacific Ocean. After dinner enjoy something from the Gelato bar or just relax with a warm brandy on a cold evening. Dishes average around $10-$11. Bring a buck or two for parking.

-- Michael

I’d love to hear your opinion of this or other restaurants in Santa Cruz.